The Stara Varoš Blog

Whenever a few days off work arise, the opportunity for a ride around the Balkans is never lost.

Day 1: Thessaloniki – Skopje [438 km]

I usually cross the neighboring country via highway, but this time I decided to spend the night in its capital, since I would ride on small country roads. The highlights of the day include a visit to Kruševo (Крушево), Mavrovo National Park (Маврово‎) and Matka Gorge (Матка).

I followed the provincial R1305 road towards Mavrovo National Park.

Almost at the entrance of the park, I came across a monument depicting a worker forging rock, a work of sculptor Boro Krstevski and architect Milorad Stankovic (1967). It was built to honor the workers and engineers who worked to build the dam. In the early morning hours of 11-02-1956, an avalanche buried the workers, who were sleeping in their dormitories. Rescuers quickly rushed to the area, freeing more than 50 of those trapped under the snow. However, 52 of the workers buried under the avalanche did not survive. This event is reported as the deadliest avalanche ever recorded in Yugoslavia.

Church of St. Nikolas. The historic chapel, almost submerged during the winter, is without a doubt the most photographed spot in the area.

One of the spots I planned to visit was the Matka Gorge.

Following the signs on E65 main road, you can easily reach the car park before the canyon. It was locals that assured me I could enter with my motorcycle and drive down the narrow trail. At first it's somehow comfortable, but later riding with the side panniers was a big no.

Skopje. Although the city is undergoing a huge, very expensive and controversial redevelopment ("Skopje 2014"), the trend of pseudo-classicism, the monuments "Warrior on a horse" and "Warrior" (which by coincidence look remarkably like Alexander the Great and Philip II), the countless bronze statues of the most irrelevant historical figures, the arches and the fountains erected throughout the center of the city, reaching the point of exaggeration, force even the locals to not recognize their own city.

The monuments bear the inscription (with which a large portion of the local residents do not agree and destroy them): «A historic figure belonging to the ancient Hellenic history and civilization, and the world cultural and historic heritage». Example, the statue of Parmenion (see more here and here).

The city could retain its authenticity if it invested in highlighting the buildings that survived the 1963 earthquake and the dozens of communist-era buildings, which, in fact, are a unique heritage that would make Skopje special.

The city center, designed by Kenzo Tange [the award-winning Japanese architect and urban planner who undertook post-war Hiroshima and the Tokyo Olympics] after the 1963 earthquake, endowed the city with some of the most distinctive examples of Brutalist architecture in the world.

If there was political will to use Skopje's architectural heritage and urban planning to attract tourism, it really wouldn't take much effort.

The former Central Post Office by architect Janko Konstantinov, which was one of the most stunning examples of modernist architecture in Skopje, now endures its crumbling fate.

Worst of all is when at night the new buildings are illuminated by neon lights. A walk downtown conveys a kitsch feel of (bad copy) Las Vegas, without the Casino’s of course.

Day 2: Skopje – Podgorica [453 km]

Head towards Kosovo and exit from Elez Han.

Via the central R6 road I easily reached Gračanica (Грачаница). It is a town in Kosovo, a Serbian enclave about ten kilometers from the capital, with an estimated population of 10,000 people, mostly Serb refugees expelled from Pristina after the Kosovo War of 1999. The medieval monastery of Gračanica is perhaps the most notable monument throughout Kosovo. This Serbian Orthodox monastery was built in 1321 by the famous King of Serbia Stefan Milutin, representing the culmination of the Serbian Byzantine tradition and the so-called Paleologean Renaissance.

The Gračanica Monastery suffered serious damage from the Ottomans, between 1379-1383, when a rich collection of historical manuscripts and other valuable objects were consigned to the flames. The monastery, which did not experience looting and destruction - as happened to many other Christian monasteries and temples - during the Kosovo war, is today guarded by KFOR troops, while in 2006 the Monastery was added to the UNESCO World Heritage List.

Miloš Obilić. Kosovar knight, probably a mythical figure, who took part in the Battle of Kosovo. Due to his feat of killing Sultan Murat I, he became a legendary figure mentioned in folk songs and legends. On June 28, 1389, during the Battle of Kosovo, as the battle turned against the Serbs, it is said that one of their knights, later identified as Milos Obilic, pretended to have deserted to the Ottoman forces. When he was brought before Murat, Obilić took out a hidden dagger and stabbed the Sultan to death, only to be killed instantly by the Sultan's bodyguards. If interested, there's a rellevant movie Boj Na Kosovu (1989).

Monastery Visoki Dečani (Манастир Високи Дечани).

The Monastery is located in a valley, next to the small river Dečani Bistrica (Дечанска Бистрица) and southwest of the city of Peć (Пећ), at the foot of the mountain range Prokletije (Проклетије). The entire complex of the Monastery is considered an outstanding cultural monument and is, since 2004, under the protection of UNESCO.

The monastery is protected by KFOR soldiers, who are under Italian command and is the last monastery protected by international peacekeeping forces, when all other monasteries, since 2013, are protected by Kosovo Police.

Kosovar fighter.

Exit Kosovo following the 106 provincial road, a beautiful mountain road, to the border post «Kulla» (or «Pikë kufitare Kosovë - Mali i Zi»).

After arriving in the town of Rozaje (Рожаје) i ride towards Plav, with the intention of seeing the Cakor Pass from the Montenegrin side. Velika.

From Peć (or Ipekio, as the city is referred to in old Greek ecclesiastical sources) starts the M9 road that leads through a mountain pass, the Cakor Pass, to Montenegro. The pass, also known as «Prevoj Čakor» or «Qafa e Çakorrit», provides a connection between the city of Peć in northwestern Kosovo and the region of Plav (Плав).

The road was closed during the Kosovo war in 1999. Now, due to roadblocks, it is not possible to complete the route between the two countries.

In the area of Lake Plav, pay attention to refueling because the next gas station is inside Albania, some 80 km away, near «Hani i Hotit». To Montenegrin «Granični prijelaz Grnčar» borders, standard document check, but my passport was not stamped for exit, while on the Albanian side, at the border station «Vermosh – Guci», my passport details were handwritten in a simple notebook.

Within Albania, the SH20 road has excellent asphalt, several hairpins and the wild landscape of the Accursed Mountains (Prokletije), complete the ideal setting for a ride with your motorcycle.

View of Lake Skadar (Skadarsko jezero).

Entry into Montenegro from «Hani i Hotit – Bozhaj». The system showed my entry into Montenegro from the border station «Granični prijelaz Kula», but there was no exit. This created a problem for the police who initially reported that I should go back to Albania. After explanations and a lot of hassle, I entered the country and headed to Podgorica (Подгорица) where I spent the night.

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Day 3: Podgorica – Budva [134 km]

Ride in Podgorica and «Blok 5».

Blok 5 was built between 1977 and 1984 as a brand new quarter of Podgorica, based on an urban plan by architect Vukota Tupa Vukotić, envisioned by the architect Mileta Bojović (1941).

The neighborhood consists of 13 buildings, housing approximately 1800 apartments. It is an urban plan that includes plenty of space for communal functions – shops, schools, kindergartens, health services.

To this day, Blok 5 remains the city's greenest district.

West of the capital, on the road to Budva (Будва), I came across another emblematic example of Yugoslav brutalist architecture, the monument of Barutana (Барутана), designed by Svetlana Kana Radević.

It was built between 1980-5 to commemorate the soldiers and citizens of the Lješanska Nahija region who perished during the conflicts of the early 20th century (1st Balkan, 1st and 2nd World Wars).

The monument gives the impression of two hands that, stretched towards the sky, are holding or offering something. If it is indeed a heavenly offering, it may be the souls of the fallen Montenegrin fighters. Another interpretation of the central sculpture approaches it as a burning torch, a symbol of the struggle for the freedom of Yugoslavia.

View from Pavlova Strana.

Some 14 kilometers west of Barutana, next to the banks of the Crnojević River lies the small town of Rijeka Crnojevića (Ријека Црнојевића).

At its entrance I came across a complex of monuments called the Monument to Fallen Fighters and Victims of Fascism or the Monument to the Revolution. It consists of a 13m high concrete spire and a row of 27 concrete blocks inscribed with the names of combatants from the various 20th century conflicts in the area.

Additionally, there is a bronze relief panel depicting ten figures, both fighters and civilians, rising up against oppression.

This project, completed in 1973, was created by Drago Đurović, born in Danilovgrad, who created many memorial projects throughout Montenegro.

Cetinje.

Fortress Kosmač (Тврђава Космач). Τhe fortress, located near the village of Brajići, was the southernmost fortress of the Austro-Hungarian Empire and guarded the border with Montenegro.

Built around 1840, it was attacked during an uprising in 1869 and was in use by Austro-Hungarian troops until the fall of the empire in 1918. After passing to the newly formed Yugoslavia, it was again used by Italian troops during the Second World War.

Budva. It is one of the oldest settlements on the Adriatic coast, inhabited since the 5th century BC, while it is said to have been founded by Cadmus of the Thebes. Euripides' «Bacchae» states that Dionysus decided to exile the founder and King of Thebes, Cadmus, and he, looking for a location for him and his wife Harmonia, founded the city of Bouthoe.

In the «Periplous» of Pseudo-Skylakas (330 BC) it is stated that Bouthoe is located south of Arion river, at half a day's distance, on the Rizunda river, where the tombs of Cadmus and Harmonia are, and then in three days' sail, is the Greek city of Epidamnos (today's Dyrrachium).

Sveti Stefan.

After returning to Budva, I received a surprise phone call from Greece, in perfect Yugoslavian:

- Стара Варош! Где си мој добри пријатељу?

- управо сам стигао у Будву.

- Колико је далеко од Тессалоникиja?

- не знам, око 600 КМ?

- ок, видимо се тамо! Хајдемо на пиво у Котору

My friend Лазар (Lazaros) came up with the amazing idea, after leaving his office in Thessaloniki and riding his motorbike nearly 600 kilometers under the midday sun, to meet for a beer in Kotor, later that evening. Laz, you really are a legend. I started with the beers on the Budva beach just a little bit earlier.

Heavy drinking rendezvous in Kotor. Sorry for the dizzy shot.

Day 4: Budva – Zabljak [259 km]

We decided to leave Budva and ride north and inland, with the final destination of the small town of Žabljak (Жабљак).

Cetinje (Цетиње). Breakfast and then a walk in the National Park Lovćen (Ловћен) and a visit to the Mausoleum of Petar II Petrović - Njegoš (Маузолеј Петра II Петровића Његоша).

View towards the Bay of Kotor.

Ostrog Monastery - (Манастир Острог).

Better to approach the site from the north, rather than through the city of Danilovgrad.

Nikšić (Никшић). Monument «Spomenik Palim Borcima U Drugom Svjetskom Ratu» (Споменик палим борцима у Другом свјетском рату).

This monument is dedicated to the memory of the fallen soldiers of Nikšić who fought against the Axis forces during the WW2.

In addition, it is dedicated to the 32 Partisan soldiers and anti-fascist fighters who were executed on Trebjesa Hill, located behind the monument.

Lunchbreak in Niksic.

Riding on the Ε762 road, we came across the Monument of Bajo Pivljanin.

Located at the entrance to the small village of Rudinice, a 4-5 meter tall monument honors a 17th century rebel fighter named Bajo Pivljanin, who resisted the Ottoman forces with guerilla warfare and fell fighting in 1685 during the Battle of Vrtijeljka.

My favorite spot is the bridge of Plužine (Плужине) and of course the whole route through the Durmitor (Дурмитор) National Park. No matter how many photos of the area one has seen, it does not even come close to the 1% of the feeling that the Durmitor massif (as part of the Dinaric Alps), the plateaus and the peak of Bobotov Kuk (Боботов Кук) exude.

Žabljak. A small village, a junction would better describe it. I love mountainous scenery, so for me this place stands for all that Montenegro really is.

Day 5: Žabljak - Skopje [364 km]

Dobro Jutro Žabljak! Coffe at Stara Varoš.

Instead of souvenirs, some photos as we leave Žabljak with the promise to return soon.

Bridge «Đurđevića Tara».

I read somewhere that in WW2 times and Italian occupation of Montenegro, local resistance, in order to delay the Italian army advancing, destroyed the central part of the bridge.

This fact really pissed Italians off, so they responded illogically, by searching for the bridge engineer and got him executed on the bridge.

If you are fond of movies, a 1969 Yugoslav film called «Most», depicts these events. The views of the canyon are impressive, as the bridge stands 172 meters (564 ft) above the Tara River.

At this point Lazaros continued north on the P4 road towards Bosnia, while I headed south, aiming to return to my hometown Thessaloniki.

Monument in honor of skier Dušan Bulatović Džambas, who bears a striking resemblance to the father of metal music, Motorhead's Lemmy.

Time counts differently on a motorcycle and I soon found myself in Kolašin (Колашин). As you will have understood by now, the Balkan tours for me are also a kind of «Spomenik Hunt», i.e. a search for monuments from the Yugoslav period, with their common feature of raw concrete as a construction material and their brutalist design. In any case, these constructions, for their time, were something very modern. Such an example is also «Spomen-Dom», also referred to as «Town Hall - Cultural Center Kolašin».

Its a spomenik complex which is meant to commemorate the first assembly of the National Anti-Fascist Council of the Peoples Liberation of Montenegro and Boka in 1943, as well as the struggle of the residents of the city during the People's Liberation Struggle (WWII).

It was built between 1971-5 and is an excellent example of modernism and post-war architecture. Personally, the design lines of the roof reminds me of roofs of the traditional style houses that dominate the Dinaric Alps of Montenegro.

Leaving Kolasin towards Rozaje, on the main road is the monument to the Battle of Mojkovac. Here, in 1916, a small group of Montenegrin fighters, under the command of General Janko Vukotic, faced a much larger unit of Austro-Hungarian soldiers. Despite the fact that Montenegrin fighters were outnumbered, they eventually managed to force the Austro-Hungarians to retreat from Mojkovac.

It's been a while since I last saw the hammer and sickle. I probably need my booster dose of some serious Soviet travelogue.

Leaving Rozaje and Montenegro behind, the weather from the border down to Pec was no longer on my side. Rain was so intense, no visibility at 20 meters, hail that I could feel even through my gloves, roads that created stagnant water that was washed all over me by the vehicles of the opposite traffic flow. I don't remember ever stopping a ride due to weather conditions. Somehow I wasted 2 hours waiting at a gas station, while my plan to return at once to Thessaloniki was canceled.