A glance in Transnistria and Tiraspol [PMR]

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Transnistria is a self-proclaimed republic that separated from Moldova after a devastating civil war that lasted for about two years, causing severe casualties on both sides. The state territory has the size half as big as the island Crete in Greece and is a narrow strip of land wedged along the Ukrainian borders and the river Dniester.

For outsiders, Transnistria is often «the country that doesn’t exist» or «the black hole of Europe» and the least known breakaway region in the former Soviet Union that, like South Ossetia, Abkhazia and Nagorno-Karabakh, has declared independence but has not been recognized by any other nation, not even Russia. Officially it’s still a part of Moldova, who granted limited recognition as an «autonomous territorial unit».

The history of Transnistria or Dnestr Moldovan Republic (also known as Pridnestrove, Transdnester, Transdniestria or in Russian: PMR - Pridnestrovskaia Moldavskaia Republika) and the city of Tiraspol (the toponym consists of two ancient Greek words: Τύρας, Tyras, the ancient name for the Dniester River, and polis, i.e., a city) as its capital, is complex and is worthy to check out.

Transnistria had a predominantly Russian and Ukrainian population who hoped to form a state that could remain a part of the USSR and feared that Moldova’s independence would mean a future reunification with Romania. In 1992 Moldova and Transnistria fought a war that ended with the involvement of Russian troops that were stationed there since the Soviet era. The state is still guarded by Russian peacekeeping forces.

Today Transnistria counts about 26 years of existence and still aims for international recognition. The fact is that its population, about half a million, live under a frozen state. Although they have economic ties with many countries, parliament and constitution, legislative and executive authority, police and army forces, national anthem and emblems and, maybe, the last flag with the hammer and sickle, its currency and passports are worthless outside its borders. Transnistria is among the poorest regions in Europe and the economic survival of the newborn state relies on the direct support from Moscow. In a 2006 referendum, the 97.2 % of the population voted in favor of joining the «Motherland» and even this referendum is not accepted internationally, not even by Russia, there are fears of a possible Russian incursion to occupy Transnistria. This scenario is empowered by signs of the Transnistrian government moving towards Moscow, as the 2013 law mandating Russian-language legislation aiming integration into the Russia-led Customs Union and the 2016 decree to adopt the Transnistrian legal system to the Russian one.

Tiraspol’s main war memorial commemorates the dead of the Great Patriotic War, the Afghanistan War and the Transdniestran War of 1990-2. The centerpiece of the memorial is a T-34/85 tank. There are also a number of individual and mass graves and a Grave of the Unknown Soldier. The inscription reads: “Имя твое неизвестно, подвиг твои бессмертен. Неизвестному солдату”. This means “Your name is unknown, your deed is immortal. Unknown soldier.”

Is PMR one of the last remnants of the USSR?

I really knew very few things about Transnistria before my first visit there, as a part of a motorbike trip up to Pripyat, Ukraine. I was only aware of the Moldovan – Transnistrian war in the early 90’s and heard of some clichés as the state is «the country that doesn’t exist» or «the black hole of Europe». Before my departure, I had to check my documents, as the Transnistrian «customs» and «borders» are within the Moldovan territory and I was worried if my id card is valid for my entry. While searching for it, I came across a lot of negative press about Transnistria (– PMR from now and on for shortage).

The time before any journey feels like flying, so i soon found myself before the PMR borders. I entered PMR from the road coming from the Moldovan capital, Kishinev. It was more recommended to enter from there. It took me like 30 min. to fill some application forms for my vehicle and some regarding my purpose of visit to PMR. I also paid some small fee for my vehicle. No fuss at all. Later I understood that this happened because I intended to stay there less than 10 hours and then exit Transnistrian territory. Exiting PMR near Dubasari, to the eastern borders to Ukraine (E584) some border guards didn’t let us out and had as wait under the August sun for no specific reason. Bribe was needed to solve our «paper problem». One year later, September 2016, I was again at the Moldovan – PMR «borders», this time coming from the west side of the city of Bender. When told the guards that I would stay overnight, after filling the same forms as last year, they had me waiting in a container-office until they clearly ask for some money, as a kind return for preparing my documents. Finally, this didn’t happen as playing the «dumb tourist» always pays off. Later some problems came up with the patrol police. They stopped me three times for checking my driving license and passport, trying to convince me I was not obeying the traffic signs and rules. I still don’t know why they harass travelers that much when they are particularly interested in the image of the country abroad.

The city of Tiraspol.

Most of the state and government buildings are on 25th October Street, like the House of Parliament (House of Soviets – Dom Sovetov) and the City Council. Many war memorials and statues can be found near the banks of Dniester river, like a Soviet T-34 tank and the memorial complex of the Soviet war in Afghanistan and the War of Transnistria. There is also standing, maybe the last, statue of Vladimir Lenin. The state buildings’ architecture, the road signs, the wide boulevards and big parks, the flags with the hammer and sickle, the political posters and slogans and the currency with Soviet generals printed on it surely give a sense of the ‘50s Soviet era, but is unfair to see the city and the state as an open-air communist museum. Citizens say that the preservation of all those past reminders of the bygone days of communism, happen just because they are proud of their history and nothing more.

Europeans and outsiders in general, describe entering PMR and visiting the capital city of Tiraspol, like a journey with a time machine back to the times of the former USSR. How valid may be such a comment when city’s infrastructure (banks, Sheriff’s new football stadium, chain supermarkets etc) demonstrate a modern capitalist state? My opinion is that such comments just oversimplifies visitors’ experience. Whether you agree with all the above or not, the truth is that Transnistrian people today try to change the way people look at their state and want foreigners to get to know their homeland a little better.

Some advice:

1. If you are in Transnistria for longer than 24 hours you must be somehow registered by a local person and for sure you have to make such declaration when entering.

2. Do not change too much to Transnistrian rubles. I still have some and are totally worthless outside of the country, as nowhere Transnistrian rubles are recognized as a currency.

3. Strictly obey the traffic rules, especially when driving your own vehicle. Your car/motorcycle plates already stand out and, believe me, police officers are everywhere.

4. Transnistrian officials are not so fond of people that make photos of state/government buildings on 25th October Street.

5. Nothing is written in English/Latin alphabet. It’s a good idea to have a look at Cyrillic letters and try learning some basic Russian words.