The Stara Varoš Blog

As every year, the riding season starts with the desire to ride and explore the Balkans. Given that we had limited time, scouting central Albania was chosen as our 24h-ride.

Day 1: Thessaloniki - Tirana [400km, 5h30m].

Via the Egnatia Highway we soon reached the area of Korestia, Kastoria and then we left the Greek territory from the Border Station of Krystallopigi.

We passed the Albanian customs control without much delay.

Decaying bunkers, horse carriages and police check points compose the puzzle of my memories.

Pogradec.

Eel sellers haggled their wares in the middle of the street.

I somewhat regretted not buying an eel, just to have it hanging from my handlebars throughout the trip.

The Four Horsemen.

To a police check point we were informed that a new, two-way section of the road follows, on which we had to move by making as many double - even triple overtakings, in order to fully harmonize with the local driving habits.

I'm not sure they advised us exactly that, mainly because i do not fully comprehend Albanian. Anyway, i believe we did the best we could, so as not to disappoint them.

Our next goal was the town of Kruja (Krujë), north of the Albanian capital.

I was intrigued by the Encyclopedia Papyrus - Larousse - Britannica (Book 36, 1989) which states «..the city is built on the site of ancient Greek city Erivia. As it is on a steep rock, it controls all the surrounding plains. In these plains, the Romans Caesar and Pompey sighted each other before the battle in Farsala. During the 13th century the fortress of the city was handed over to the emperor of Nicaea John III Duke Vatatzis (1222 - 1254) by the despot of Epirus Michael II Angelos Komnenos...».

The city is also connected with Georgios Kastriotis (1404 or 1405 - 1468), the son of the Byzantine lord Ioannis Kastriotis and the Serbian princess Voisava. He was a heroic figure who, under the red flag with the double-headed eagle (a variation of the flag of Byzantium), fought for decades against the Ottomans, with countless victories. The nickname Skanderbeg was given from the Turks who considered him equal to Iskender, that is Alexander the Great.

Georgios Kastriotis Museum.

We followed the road that leads to Sari Salltik teqe (sanctuary), over the city of Kruja, for the views and some photographs.

Back to Tirana, where we spent the night.

Day 2: Tirana - Thessaloniki [650km, 9h50m].

By daylight, the neighborhood around the hotel reminded me of my student years (late 80s) in Haarlem, New York.

Leaving Tirana.

Vlorë and Albanian riviera.

Our goal was to head south, via a route parallel to the coastline, towards 2000 m. high Keravnia Mountains. The name is derived from the Ancient Greek «Κεραύνια ὄρη», meaning «thunder-split peaks». This mountain range in antiquity was the boundary of the Greek world as it was the physical border between the Greek tribes of Epirus and the Illyrian tribes. In the area of Keravnia, the Chaones were settled and further south the Thesprotians. At their foot were the cities of Chaones: Phenicia, Himara, Ekatobeton, Panormos and Ogismos (see Strabo «Geography», book IV).

Continuation of the route with the famous Llogara Pass, which crosses the homonymous National Park.

Panorama, some 650 m. above sea level, from something that initially looked like a half-finished building, but actually was the top of a Command Bunker.

Scattered throughout Albania, small or large bunkers, are estimated at about 173.000 (some 5.7 per square kilometer), built under the leadership of Enver Xoxha, without any logic, as they were never involved in any armed conflict. Some kilometres to the north, in the gulf of Porto Palermo is another «hidden» but very famous remnant of the Cold War era, the submarine base of the Albanian Navy, also known as the "Porto Palermo Tunnel". It was built in 1969, during the period of the Socialist People's Republic of Albania, under the rule of Enver Hoxha and even today the area is under military control.

For some, it is considered a base for high-speed, short-range cruise ships, while other sources claim that it is the base of the four Soviet submarines «project-613», known in the West as «whiskey-class».

[Note: The aerial shots that follow, come, after permission, from the personal account of Lana Sator on Instagram. This is my favorite account related to the area of abandoned and urban aesthetics].

Shots of Lana Sator from the former naval base.