Riding your motorcycle on small country roads [along with the, more than obvious, driving pleasure] leads you to unexpected situations and surprises. 

Such a case was when crossing eastern Poland, between the lakes Siercze and Moj, some 9 km east of Ketrzyn, i came across the eerie «Wolf’s Lair» (German: Wolfsschanze; Polish: Wilczy Szaniec).

Visiting the top-secret military site in Mazuria, protected by dense forests, lakes and swamplands, i had a unique insight into Germany’s WW2-era war machine.

The whole complex was surrounded by multiple barriers of barbed wire, gun emplacements and a sophisticated minefield. Any approaching aircraft could be detected up to 100 km (60 miles) from the Wolf's Lair. An airfield was built 5km away and there was an emergency airstrip within the camp. Apart from the natural camouflage of trees and plants, the bunker site was further disguised with artificial vegetation-like screens suspended on wires and changed according to the season of the year.

The vast bunkers were constructed above-ground with concrete walls 8m (26ft) thick - so solid that the SS were unable to demolish them in 1945, despite using tons of dynamite.

Three security zones were guarded by personnel from the SS-Begleitkommando des Führers, Reichssicherheitsdienst and the Wehrmacht's armoured Führerbegleitbrigade. Despite the security, the most notable assassination attempt against Hitler was made at Wolf's Lair on 20 July 1944.

Wolf’s Lair became a world within a world, complete with two airfields, railway station, central heating, power generators, sewage system, sauna, casino and even a cinema.

About two thousand people lived and worked at Wolf's Lair at its peak, among them twenty women, some of whom were required to sample Hitler's food to test for poison.

The complex was eventually blown up on 24 January 1945 and the Germans retreated. Three days later the Soviets arrived, but the extensive minefield was still efficiently defending the empty ruins. It took 10 years to clear the 55,000 mines within the complex.

Col. Stauffenberg was immediately captured and executed the same night. In the purge that followed, over five thousand more plotters were rounded up and killed. Their deaths recorded on film for Hitler’s pleasure.

What still impresses me is that it is debatable if the Allies knew the location of the Nazis’ stronghold and if so, the reason they didn’t bomb it. Some claim that killing Hitler would have just forced a coup, a following leadership change and peace negotiations, but this wouldn’t be enough for the Allies that wanted nothing but Germany’s complete and unconditional surrender.

Reviewing my experience, i end up with a familiar conclusion. History is like Truth. We are obliged to preserve it at all costs, maintain it free from political ideology and any kind of manipulation, so it can be presented as the most valuable lesson for generations to come.

[Note: wiki follows different numbering of the buildings from the one that still exists on them, eg Hitlers bunker (lucky) number 13 - scroll up to see its present condition]

[foto: wikipedia]