Georgia: The Greater Caucasus ride [EN]

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Aiming to reach Georgia from Thessaloniki (GR) as soon as possible, i chose a route through Turkey. The other options were either by boat from Bulgaria or riding the northern side of the Black Sea through Bulgaria, Romania, Moldova (and a part of Transnistria - PMR), Ukraine and Russia. Those two were rejected as the first one had an uncertain timetable for the Varna (BG) - Poti (GE) ferry connection and the other one would involve the issue of a new passport that would increase the preparation costs, extended delays to Transnistrian borders and more miles to cover to avoid areas of Russian-Ukrainian conflicts.

Day 1-3 [Thessaloniki – Batumi]

As the distance from my hometown to Georgia was around 2.200 km, i had to spend two nights in Turkey before reaching Batumi. So, the plan was fixed as follows: day 1: Thessaloniki to Bursa (680km), day 2: Bursa to Sivas (870km) and day 3: Sivas to Batumi (640km). The route’s highlights were the mountain passes of Central Anatolia, the Cifte Minareli Medrese in Sivas and Sumela monastery.

Day 4 [Batumi – Mestia, 270 km]

I left Batumi early in the morning with the best impression. The statue of Neptune situated in the most central place and in front of Batumi Drama Theater is a copy of the Fountain of Neptune in the Piazza del Nettuno in the town of Bologna in Italy, indicating the city's wealth and development.

My dream about riding Georgia and Caucasus mountain range was finally coming true. Riding after Jvari was quite hard and demanding, but offered opportunities for some off-road on abandoned ex-soviet military roads.

Temperature dropped sharply as i went higher and higher inside the valleys of Zemo Svaneti National Park. At the end of the road lies the small village of Mestia, the administrative capital of Svaneti region, at an altitude of 1400m. An impossibly wild, mysterious and beautiful land with old buildings and Svan towers mixed in among drabber Soviet-era structures. It is said that because of its remoteness it has never been tamed by any ruler. Even during the Soviet period it largely retained its traditional way of life.

Day 5 [Mestia – Kutaisi. 220 km]

Mestia. Walking among the Svan towers. Time stands still.

Before my trip i really wanted to visit Ushguli village as a day trip, but locals said that it was impossible to go there by any other vehicle except 4x4.

Left Mestia and Svaneti region with a promise to return. The alpine scenery of South Caucasus was just incomparable. Decisions.. Which road to take: Armenia or Azerbaijan?

After a short visit to Imereti Monastery and the industrial cable-car city of Chiatura, i spent a night in Kutaisi, the city related to the myth of Jason and the Golden Fleece.

Day 6 [Kutaisi – Kazbegi, 328 km]

Day’s first stop was at the city of Gori, famous for being, back in 1878, the birthplace of Ioseb Besarionis dzе Jughashvili, a.k.a. Stalin. Spent some time to the museum, filled with the soviet leader’s personal items. Its highlight was the intact house where he was born. The city of Gori is maybe the last place where Stalin’s legacy endures such popularity and acceptance.

I decided to stay in Georgia and go north, up to the Russian borders on Caucasus Mountain. There is the famous «Georgian Military Road», part of the E117 road. It surely is a highlight of any trip to Georgia and one of South Caucasus' most scenic roads, steeped in trade, wars and legends. This ancient passage across the Caucasus towards Vladikavkaz in Russia is a spectacular adventure. The road is 198 km long and runs between Tbilisi (capital city of Georgia) and Vladikavkaz (in the North Ossetia region, in Russia) across the Great Caucasus Range. It follows the traditional route used by invaders and traders throughout the centuries.

Before reaching Kazbegi (Stepantsmindha) i had a short stop to Mtskheta, the religious capital of Georgia, then to the Ananuri fortress and later on to the monument dedicated to the Russian-Georgian Friendship. On the way to Kazbegi, at some point there is no road, so you are free to choose: mud, gravel, rivers... (It was where my kidney just peel off its position). The day’s highlight could be hiking mt. Kazbek up to the 14th-century Tsminda Sameba (Holy Trinity Church, 2170m), if it wasn’t that late in the afternoon and not too muddy to ascend. This 5047 mountain is an extinct volcano and also connected with the myth of Prometheus.

Day 7 [Kazbegi – Tbilisi, 155 km]

Eleven km north of Kazbegi and along the Tergi river, i reached the spectacular Dariali Gorge. Much of it is across the Russian border, but as i lacked visa i was turned away by border police. At least i saw the two flags (Russian and Georgian) waving side by side.

The day’s goal was to head to the wild, semi-desert Kakheti region and visit David Gareji complex, famous for the dispute - control of Ancient Monastery's territory, as it is located right on the borders with Azerbaijan. Weather conditions didn’t allow much, so i rest in the fascinating old city of the Georgian capital. Views over Tbilisi.

«Kartlis Deda» (Mother Georgia), the 20m aluminum statue that dominates the Narikala hill, holds a sword and a cup of wine. It happens to be a perfect metaphor for the Georgian character, both welcoming and proud.

Tsminda Sameba is Georgia's symbol for post-soviet religious revival. Unmissable landmark by day or night. If walking aimlessly around the Old Town is not your thing, i would suggest to have a bath to Abanotubani (Tbilisi sulphur baths) and get a full body scrub.

Day 8 [Tbilisi – Batumi, 605 km]

Left Tbilisi and took the back roads, passing the mountainous areas near Tsalka lakes under freezing temperatures. I got my GS back in 2005 and if i correctly recall the spot, somewhere near Tsalka, i had my first «hard forced landing». Thank God only thing broke was my pride.

After Vardzia Caves on my way to Batumi, was Borjomi. Back in 1829, some soldiers discovered a mineral spring here and since then Borjomi was developed as a resort until the Soviet Era. After the Soviet collapse, the city was left to its own fate. After a long rainy day on the road, i finally reached to Batumi.

Day 9-11 [Batumi – Thessaloniki]

Batumi with its futuristic buildings, parks and ferris wheel, the Stealth Bomber-like McDonalds & gas station and the little «undergroung» bakery. Soon i had to leave Batumi, exit Adjara and Georgia as the day's goal was to enter Turkey and head as far in the mainland as possible.

Returning home always seems harder, especially if you had a great time. Since i had to cross Turkey again, i chose a different route, riding along the Black Sea costal road. I had to cover around 1.900 km to my hometown, so i decided to spend a night in Samsun and then to Istanbul. The whole route was indifferent, consisting mostly of highways. I close my publication with a photo of the world's narrowest strait used for international navigation, the Bosporus.