The Pindus mountain range: Tzoumerka and the Baros Pass

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Among my motorcyclist friends, the conditions that ensure a successful trip are often discussed. Many support the idea that the evaluation of a trip is mainly determined by the record-breaking coverage of infinite kilometers per day, by how "exotic" the destination was, how many finally managed to get there and various other factors that, in the end, may not even be required for a motorcycle ride.

On the contrary, to see something new and beautiful, to get lost in forgotten and abandoned country roads, to get close to nature and (re)discover your true self, most of the times you do not even need to fend off far from home. The exploration of the largest mountain range in Greece, the Pindos, verifies all the above.

Stara Varos Blog - Exploration of the Pindus mountain range: Tzoumerka and the Baros Pass

Dominating almost all of western Greece, the endless complex of mountains, peaks, plateaus, valleys and gorges has a length of up to 230 km and a maximum width of 70 km. The imposing mountain mass is the backbone of Greece, as it begins near the borders with Albania, keeps going south to the Peloponnese in the Corinthian Gulf and, after finally emerging in Crete, is rightly considered the southern end of the Dinaric Alps. The most important mountains that make up the Pindos mountain range are the Athamanika Mountains (Tzoumerka), Grammos, Tymfi (Gamila), Agrafa, Lakmos (Peristeri) and others, while Smolikas has its highest peak, at 2,637 meters.

Photos and brief comments from a short ride in the Athamanika Mountains and the Baros Pass, follow right bellow.

An appointment with friends was given to Melissourgoi (a village in the prefecture of Arta, that is built at an altitude of 850 - 870 meters, on the slopes of the Tzoumerka Mountains).

From a wide range of options for accommodation in the area, i singled out the remarkable Melissourgoi Mountain Refuge.

I camped a bit out of the refuge's bounds, to try my tent and myself, since i would soon be on a multi-day trip to Italy - Austria with the same equipment setup and the mood for wild camping. [About that trip: A taste of the Alps].

Meeting with friends at the refuge.

Kalimera Tzoumerka!

But first, a stop in the village of Pramanta for a coffee for the road (*note: i must not forget to return the glass).

Crossing the Kalaritikos river.

This was followed by a visit to the monastery of Kipina.

The monastery is built in a large cave of a vertical rock and its foundation, according to its founding inscription, is attributed to the year 1349, while according to Seraphim Byzantios, Metropolitan of Arta and historian, it is even older.

The access to the monastery is a path carved into the rock, but in the old days it was interrupted by a mobile wooden bridge - the lysia (λυσιά) - which was removed at night or in an emergency.

The location and nature of the monument, the crypt on the ground floor, the 240 m long cave, which opens on the north side of the narthex, the adjacent loopholes and the limited access to it, make the monastery inaccessible and one of the few that were not destroyed by looting raids.

View to the village Syrrako, perhaps one of the most beautiful villages of Pindos.

Coffee and rest in the main square of Syrrako village.

It is worthwhile to deal with the history of the village, since this one did not escape the common fate of the other Tzoumerka villages, which during World War II (especially from the middle to the end of October 1943) suffered great damage from the purges of the German occupiers. Tribute to the fallen for the homeland.

Relatively close, just a stone's throw northeast of Kalarrites village and where the mountains Peristeri and Kakarditsa meet, is located the highlight of the area, the Baros Pass or, by analogy with the names of the alpine passages, the Passo Baros.

At 1905 meters, it is one of the three passages that connect Thessaly with Epirus region. It is likely to be the highest altitude asphalt road in the country, while it is worth mentioning that until 1912 and the Wars for Independence, it delimited the Greek-Ottoman empire border.

Descending, i came across the section of the passage that opens in late spring and of course, very often even then, strong weather phenomena prevail, such as strong winds and snowfall.

Just before Chaliki, near the Acheloos river and the junction to Aspropotamos (Municipality of Kalampaka), the vegetation was so dense that in no way it could be compared to the barren and stony landscape i left behind before Baros Pass.

Direction to Anilio (Metsovo) and return to Thessaloniki via Egnatia Odos motorway.

As already mentioned in the introduction, the Pindos mountain range while being accessible from any part of the country, is still an area of infinite natural beauty that calls you to discover it, making it an ideal destination for motorcycle ride getaways.